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How well do we know the effect of the sun on our bodies and the benefits of the sunscreen we use?
What does a sunscreen protect us from?
From UVA & UVB solar radiation. UVC radiation is protected by ozone (for how much longer...)
UVA (320-400 nm) radiation is responsible for premature aging of the skin.
UVB (290-320 nm) radiation is the one that can cause inflammation in our skin followed by burns (redness, stinging, peeling).
A sunscreen must provide protection for a wide range of solar radiation to be effective, so it is always a good idea to look for "broad spectrum protection" on the label
What does the SPF tell us?
If our skin starts to usually burn 30 minutes after exposure to sunlight, applying a sunscreen with SPF 15 then our skin is protected for 15 x 30=450' minutes, that is 7.5 hours.
However, numbers are...numbers. In practice, to have the protection that a product promises, we need sufficient, regular, and even application of the sunscreen and always after sweating or wiping, so that we can be sure that it provides us with the sun protection that be written on. If we apply an insufficient amount of a sunscreen, then the protection it provides is reduced by 30-50%.
Of course, avoid exposure during the midday hours when the sun's rays fall vertically.
And what sun protection factor should I choose?
An SPF-15 is a good start since it blocks 93% of UVB radiation. For more sensitive skin & when sun exposure is more extensive at times when the sun is strongest you can use a sunscreen with a SPF 30 that blocks 96% of UVB radiation.
Higher indexes make very little difference in terms of protection and are usually a marketing issue.
For us, the ideal is frequent and proper use of a medium protection sunscreen as mentioned earlier.
Natural filters
Natural filters reduce the percentage of ultraviolet radiation that reaches our skin by reflecting it. Their action starts as soon as they are applied to the skin, and they are quite stable.
The ones that are widely used are zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO2), which are inorganic and safe to use.
Zinc oxide not only provides sun protection but also has anti-inflammatory properties. It is not absorbed by the skin or block its pores; it is simply coated on the surface and its molecules act like small mirrors that reflect radiation. It is suitable for both sensitive and baby skin. It is extremely stable and even after hours of exposure it continues to do its job. The only downside it has is aesthetic in nature, because it leaves a white color on application.
This is where titanium dioxide comes to the rescue whose molecules are smaller and does not create such an intense white film on the skin. However, the smaller molecules tend to be more unstable which is why some inorganic stabilizers are used (such as Stearic Acid, Alumnium Hydroxide, Alumina -which have nothing to do with the controversial Aluminum chlorohydrate) which embrace the small TiO2 molecules making them more stable.
But what are nanoparticles and why are they good to avoid?
They are molecules of titanium dioxide & zinc oxide which have been fragmented into tiny molecules (<100nm) so that they do not create the undesirable aesthetically undesirable white film after application and are spread more evenly. Many studies suggest that they are potentially carcinogenic as such small molecules can penetrate very deeply while some claim that this has not been fully proven. Some claim that this only happens if one inhales them so it is recommended that spray sunscreens containing nanoparticles should be avoided and their use should be avoided in the swimming pool (whether it is sprayed or not) because they are further broken down by chlorine.
Chemical filters
Chemical filters reduce the amount of ultraviolet radiation by converting it into heat. To work they need to be applied before exposure to the sun, and their ability to absorb UV radiation can vary considerably.
On the plus side, they spread evenly, can create a very high index sunscreen, and do not leave a white film on our skin.
On the negative side, they can cause skin lesions (since they convert all the UV radiation they absorb into heat and diffuse it into our skin) and they significantly interfere with our biochemical pathways (hormonal disruptors) and can cause carcinogenesis.
Some of them are: octyl-methoxycinnamate (which interferes with the secretion of thyroid gland hormones, homosalate (interferes with UVB radiation but also interferes with hormone synthesis), oxybenzone or 4-methylbenzylidene camphor which also interfere with hormone synthesis and are still widely used even though they have been banned in many countries.
Quantities of these have unfortunately been detected in breast milk in unauthorised quantities, which should make us even more sceptical in our choice of sunscreen.
Finally, we must not overlook the damage that chemical filters do to marine life and the oceans.
And what about vegetable oils that have sun protection?
There are vegetable oils that have their own SPF with leader the red raspberry seed oil, which having a very high SPF, it is high in alpha & gamma-tocopherols (vitamin E), vitamin A, omega 3- 6- fatty acids. The reason why despite the indexes they cannot be used as sunscreens on their own is because they are quite unstable and need to be incorporated into a more stable formula to perform.
- Red raspberry seed oil (raspberry) SPF 25-35
- Carrot seed essential oil - SPF 15-20
- Shea & Coconut Butter- SPF 5-10
- Sesame, grapeseed, avocado & jojoba oil - SPF 3 -10
The forgotten benefits of the sun
Solar radiation activates the production (conversion to be precise) of vitamin D in our body. An essential vitamin for our overall health, it protects against inflammation, lowers blood pressure, helps our muscular system function better, improves brain function, improves mood by increasing serotonin levels and our vitality.
After all, maybe should we afraid of the sunscreens that we use than the solar radiation itself?
The truth is somewhere in the middle. On the one hand we need to be very careful in our choice of sunscreen and on the other hand enjoy the benefits of the sun with exposure at the right time and duration each season.
Our opinion
For sunscreens with chemical filters, we would say a big "NO" unless you are forced to be on a beach at midday in midsummer and have no access to any other protection.
That's kind of how we feel about sunscreens with nano-molecules especially when they are in spray form.
We would also say no to sunscreens with a high index (50 and above) because they just don't make that much difference and it's more of a marketing issue.
You will say to me "and babies?" Little babies shouldn't be directly exposed to solar radiation anyway, so again such a high factor is of no use.
We are therefore in favor of a sunscreen with a medium SPF (SPF15) when used correctly in terms of quantity, frequency, and application. For areas of the body that may be exposed more time (face) and for "big" babies, children, or adults with very sensitive skin a high SPF sunscreen (SPF30) is ideal.
What have we chosen for ourselves and our products?
Our sunscreens contain natural zinc oxide and titanium dioxide filters not in nano form but of medium size (>100nm) so that on the one hand the harmful effects of nanoparticles are excluded but at the same time they provide uniform protection and do not color the skin white. Their action is enhanced by the vegetable oils (organic, cold-pressed) that they contain (red raspberry, carrot, avocado, etc.) to which we referred above.
At the same time, we have used antioxidant herbal extracts instead of water (elixir, green tea, chamomile, marigold flower) which have additional anti-inflammatory & emollient properties.
Lastly, we have added juice from freshly cut aloe leaves, panthenol, natural vitamin E and essential oils of chamomile, lavender or mastic that moisturize & soothe the skin and work great against burns.
Myrto Deligianni
Biologist, Botanist
Find our summer products here: http://www.myrro.gr/en/summer-products-51